Guide to Finger Taping for Climbers

You can find a roll of tape in almost every climber’s bag, and on any given afternoon at the crag, you will see climbers with a wide variety of tape on their fingers. There are endless styles and types of taping, and some climbers tape almost every finger. Some may be covering up a flapper and protecting their skin, some might be healing an injured pulley, but others might be taping to proactively protect their pulleys.

But does tape even do anything? Unfortunately, there is minimal research on this topic. There is currently no reliable evidence that taping can increase the strength of tendons in uninjured climbers, reduce the shearing forces at the pulley, or decrease the risk of pulley rupture[1]. There is, however, moderate evidence that H-taping can reduce bowstringing of a flexor tendon when the pulley is injured.

Below we will dive into a few of the most common taping techniques and when they might be appropriate.

H-TAPE

When to Tape:

-If you have a pulley injury, have already taken some time to rest, and a PT has cleared you to get back into climbing.

-If you have been dealing with flexor tenosynovitis (maybe).

Tape we recommend: Leukotape

There is low to moderate evidence that H-taping can reduce bow-stringing of the flexor tendon when the pulley is injured[1]. So, this can be effective to decrease strain on the pulley as you return to climbing.

There is no evidence that taping decreases irritation from flexor tenosynovitis; however, decreasing the bowstringing from a previous pulley injury can decrease friction and reduce swelling. Some patients have reported improvements in pain when taping up; however, the added compression from the tape may also increase sensitivity in some fingers.

To apply H tape, use tape about 8-10 cm long and 1.5 cm wide. We recommend Leukotape, which has more tension than general “climber’s tape.” Rip the tape in half from each end, leaving about a 1 cm chunk of tape in the middle. When applying the tape, flex your PIP to about 60 degrees. Tighten down the upper strip (closest to your fingertip) and then the lower strip, making sure to keep the finger flexed the whole time. The upper strip can be slightly tighter.

Remember that tape will stretch, so re-apply between climbs to maintain tension and observe similar results to the studies.

X-TAPE

When it might be helpful:

-If you have a pulley injury, have already taken some time to rest, and a PT has cleared you to get back into climbing.

-Volar plate injuries

Tape we recommend: 0.3” Tension Tape

X-tape is a less researched but faster and easier taping method than the H-tape. In our experience working with climbers, they have reported better compliance with the X-tape due to ease of application and similar perceptions of support compared to the H-tape.

Volar plate injuries tend to be provoked by extension of the susceptible joint. As x-taping crosses in front of the joint, it limits joint extension, offloading the volar plate.

To apply x-tape, cut a long, thin piece of tape. Start by wrapping the tape above the joint, make 2-3 laps around. Cross the joint on the palm side with a slight bend in the finger. Take another 2-3 laps around the bottom of the joint, then cross back above to complete your "x". Take a final lap around the top of the joint, then anchor the tape down.

CIRCUMFERENTIAL

When it might be helpful:

-If you have a nasty flapper and need to give the project one more go

Tape we recommend: Climbing tape

Circumferential taping is unproven to prevent bowstringing [2]. Consider a circumferential tape to protect a flapper or cut; otherwise, this one is unrecommended.

To circumferential tape, just take a short piece of tape and wrap around the finger to protect the skin.

BUDDY TAPING

When it might be helpful:

-If you have a collateral ligament injury or a lumbrical strain.

Tape we recommend: Leukotape

Buddy Taping can be useful if you have sustained a collateral ligament injury, a lumbrical injury, or have highly irritable joint capsulitis. Buddy taping can work to stabilize the injured finger and decrease lateral stresses. Pocket moves stress the lumbrical muscle, so forcing your fingers to stay straight up besides each other removes the risk of stressing the lumbrical.

To buddy tape, take a piece of tape about 15-20 cm in length. Squeeze two fingers being taped together, and wrap together above the joint. Repeat the same thing with a separate piece of tape below the joint, so that the knuckles can still bend but fingers are stuck together.

A Final Note on Taping:

Remember taping is not a replacement for rest, physical therapy, and/or corrective exercises for finger injuries. Also, skin irritation can occur if the tape is not changed regularly[3]. If you do have a finger injury, reach out and schedule an appointment with us so that we can help to diagnose and safely guide your finger rehab to ensure you return to climbing strong at the appropriate time!

1. Larsson R, Nordeman L, Blomdahl C. To tape or not to tape: Annular ligament (pulley) injuries in rock climbers—a systematic review. BMC Sports Science, Medicine and Rehabilitation. 2022;14(1). doi:10.1186/s13102-022-00539-6

2. Schoffl I, Einwag F, Strecker W, Hennig F, Schoffl V. Impact of “taping” after finger flexor tendon pulley ruptures in rock climbers. Journal of Applied Biomechanics. 2007; 23:52-62.

3. Hun Won S, Lee S, You Chung C, et al. Buddy Taping: Is it a safe method for treatment of finger and toe injuries? Clinical Orthopedic Surgery. 2014;6(1):26-31.