Guide to Finger Taping for Climbers

You can find a roll of tape in almost every climber’s bag. On any given afternoon at the crag, you will see climbers taping their fingers in various styles. Some climbers tape almost every finger. Reasons for taping vary; some may be covering up a flapper and protecting their skin, while others might be healing an injured pulley. Some might even be taping to proactively protect their pulleys.

The Effectiveness of Taping

But does tape even do anything? Unfortunately, there is minimal research on this topic. Currently, no reliable evidence suggests that taping can strengthen tendons in uninjured climbers. Additionally, it does not seem to reduce the shearing forces at the pulley or decrease the risk of pulley rupture. However, there is moderate evidence that H-taping can reduce bowstringing of a flexor tendon when the pulley is injured.

Below, we will dive into a few common taping techniques and discuss when they might be appropriate.

H-TAPE

When to Tape:

• If you have a pulley injury and have taken some time to rest.

• If a physical therapist has cleared you to get back into climbing.

• If you've been dealing with flexor tenosynovitis (maybe).

  
  

Tape we recommend: Leukotape

There is low to moderate evidence that H-taping can reduce bowstringing of the flexor tendon when the pulley is injured. This technique can be effective in decreasing strain on the pulley as you return to climbing.

While there is no evidence that taping reduces irritation from flexor tenosynovitis, reducing bowstringing from a previous pulley injury can decrease friction and swelling. Some patients have reported pain improvements when using tape. However, the added compression may increase sensitivity in some fingers.

How to Apply H Tape

To apply H tape, use approximately 8-10 cm of tape that is about 1.5 cm wide. We recommend using Leukotape, which has more tension than standard climber’s tape. Rip the tape in half from each end, leaving about a 1 cm section in the middle. When applying the tape, flex your proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to about 60 degrees.

• Tighten down the upper strip (closest to your fingertip) first.

• Then tighten the lower strip while keeping the finger flexed the entire time.

• The upper strip can be slightly tighter.

  
  

Keep in mind that tape will stretch, so re-apply between climbs to maintain tension, ensuring results consistent with the studies.

X-TAPE

When it might be helpful:

• If you have a pulley injury and have taken some time to rest.

• If a physical therapist has cleared you to climb again.

• For managing volar plate injuries.

  
  

Tape we recommend: 0.3” Tension Tape

X-tape is less researched, but many find it faster and easier to apply than H-tape. According to our experience with climbers, they report higher compliance with X-tape because of its ease of application and similar perceptions of support compared to H-tape.

Volar plate injuries often result from extension of the joint. With X-taping, the tape crosses in front of the joint, limiting extension and offloading the volar plate.

How to Apply X Tape

To apply X-tape, cut a long, thin piece of tape. Start by wrapping the tape above the joint for 2-3 laps. Next, cross the joint on the palm side while keeping a slight bend in your finger. Complete the process by making another 2-3 laps around the bottom of the joint and then crossing back above to create your "X." Finish with a final lap around the top of the joint to anchor the tape.

CIRCUMFERENTIAL TAPING

When it might be helpful:

• If you have a nasty flapper and need to give the project one more go.

  
  

Tape we recommend: Climbing tape

Circumferential taping has not been proven to prevent bowstringing. Consider this taping method primarily for protecting a flapper or a cut. Otherwise, it is generally unrecommended.

How to Apply Circumferential Tape

To apply circumferential tape, take a short piece of tape and simply wrap it around the finger to protect the skin.

BUDDY TAPING

When it might be helpful:

• If you have a collateral ligament injury or a lumbrical strain.

  
  

Tape we recommend: Leukotape

Buddy taping can be beneficial for collateral ligament injuries, lumbrical injuries, and joint capsulitis. This method stabilizes the injured finger while reducing lateral stresses. Pocket moves especially stress the lumbrical muscle, so keeping fingers straight beside each other can alleviate strain.

How to Apply Buddy Tape

To buddy tape, take a 15-20 cm length of tape. Squeeze the two fingers being taped together and wrap tape above the joint. Repeat this with a separate piece of tape below the joint, ensuring the knuckles can still bend while the fingers remain side by side.

A Final Note on Taping

Remember that taping is not a substitute for rest, physical therapy, and corrective exercises for finger injuries. Skin irritation can occur if the tape is not changed regularly. If you experience a finger injury, please reach out and schedule an appointment with us. We can help diagnose and guide your finger rehab, ensuring a strong return to climbing at the appropriate time!

1. Larsson R, Nordeman L, Blomdahl C. To tape or not to tape: Annular ligament (pulley) injuries in rock climbers—a systematic review. BMC Sports Science, Medicine and Rehabilitation. 2022;14(1). doi:10.1186/s13102-022-00539-6

2. Schoffl I, Einwag F, Strecker W, Hennig F, Schoffl V. Impact of “taping” after finger flexor tendon pulley ruptures in rock climbers. Journal of Applied Biomechanics. 2007; 23:52-62.

3. Hun Won S, Lee S, You Chung C, et al. Buddy Taping: Is it a safe method for treatment of finger and toe injuries? Clinical Orthopedic Surgery. 2014;6(1):26-31.